Rope Anchors

How to Climb / Rock Climbing Anchors / Rock Climbing Basics / Uncategorized

Rope Anchors

There are many scenarios where you may need a fixed line.  These include top rope soloing, hanging photography, and route development. At many climbing areas, using a two-bolt anchor as your rope attachment point is the most feasible, efficient, and even the safest option. Here are just a few option for rigging a Y-Hang with a rope.

Figure 8 With Bunny Ears

The Figure Eight with Bunny Ears is probably the most popular among climbers. Since we use the figure-eight all the time, it makes sense that this is one that people trust. Plus, if you know how to tie in, it’s not hard to get this one down.  The two “bunny ears” can even act as a shelf and be a multipitch anchor solution.

The Inline Figure Eight

The inline figure-eight is another popular solution among climbers once agin likely due to it’s familiarity. It’s quick and efficient but the main knot can collapse if the center angle is to wide.

The Alpine Butterfly

The alpine butterfly is a knot every rock climber should know.  When you need a midline knot that can wisthstand forces at any angle, this is the one! Plus, if dressed properly, it can be relatively easy to untie after repeat loading.

The Karash Double Loop

Here’s one we don;t see often in the rock climbing world. The Karash Double Loop is a combination of the bowline and a bight and the figure-eight. It’s strong, easy to untie, and single loops can be weighted without fear of the knot collapsing. If you’re into caving, you have certainly heard of this one. But many climbers shy away due to it’s non-symmetrical design for fear of messing it up!

Y-Hangs are an efficient tool that rock climbers can benefit from in many scenarios from multipitch to fixed lines. Now what combination will you choose?

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